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More QRW Spring 2008 feature articles:
Best Buy For Single Malt Whisky
Best 12- and 15-Year-Old Single Malts
Our choices, once again, are tried and true.
QRW Staff
This is our 20th Annual Malt Tasting, which, like all our tastings, was done blind. “Round up the usual suspects” may well be the title of this article. Which is almost invariably what we do, all the while hoping other suspects will reveal themselves. And the usual suspects tend to win. Generally, although not exclusively, we are Highland, Speyside, and Orkney malt fans at QRW. The tasting team is requested to judge those malts that are “readily available retail” in the U.S. The ages we selected were 12 and 15. We didn’t taste the 10 year malt this year because we don’t find enough in them. (For our tasters, however, the best 10-year-old malt is still Glenmorangie.) For a few more dollars, the 12-year-old malts offer more body and flavor. There are more than 100 malts, and not all are easily available. So we dealt with 39 of them from varying ages that consumers can get their hands on. Below are only those malt scotches the team decided to offer for publication, offering the top four or five in each category. Our editorial rule for the last 30 years is to write about those brands we feel are the best. Short-stemmed Glenmorangie malt glasses were used; sparkling water cleared palates; some tasters choose to add a splash of non-sparkling bottled water to the malts. We worked on a ten-point basis: aroma (two points), flavors (four points), and finish (four points). Expect prices to vary from region to region.
12-Year-Old Malt
| The Macallan |
1st (tie) |
Speyside |
9/10 |
$50 |
| Highland Park |
1st (tie) |
Orkney Islands |
9/10 |
$40 |
| Glenmorangie |
2nd (tie) |
Highlands |
8+/10 |
$50 |
| Balvenie Doublewood |
2nd (tie) |
Speyside |
8+/10 |
$60 |
| Glenlivet |
3rd (tie) |
Speyside |
8/10 |
$50 |
| Glenfiddich Special Reserve |
3rd (tie) |
Speyside |
8/10 |
$50 |
12-Year-Old Malt Tasting Notes
- The Macallan: Pretty golden hue; sweet, sherry nose; elegant, graceful; medium body; floral, honey finish.
- Highland Park: Lovely gold hue; sweetish; sherry, honey notes; medium to full; long, assertive, smooth, and delicious finish.
- Glenmorangie: Pale gold color; sweetish nose; medium body; quite smooth; almond, smooth finish.
- Balvenie (Doublewood): Amber color, medium body, nutty (almonds), slightly sweet; lovely flavors, and one of our house malts.
- Glenlivet: Gold color; light in body; slightly sweet, bit nutty; finishes well.
- Glenfiddich Special Reserve: White/pale color; light body; hint of sweetness; bit lean in body.
| The Macallan (Fine Oak) |
1st (tie) |
Highland |
9+/10 |
$80 |
| Highland Park |
1st (tie) |
Orkney Islands |
9+/10 |
$60 |
| Balvenie (Single Barrel) |
2nd |
Speyside |
9/10 |
$90 |
| Glenlivet (French Oak Reserve) |
3rd |
Speyside |
8+/10 |
$75 |
15-Year-Old Malt Tasting Notes
- The Macallan: Mahogany hue; toffee and honey aromas; clean, attractive; sherry, floral; medium body; floral finish that’s smooth and very long. Superb.
- Highland Park: Gold hue; soft, quite smooth, elegant; almond notes with honey tones, full finish; very fine.
- Balvenie (Single Barrel): Soft gold color; medium body; oak and lemon flavors; good finish.
- The Glenlivet (French Oak Reserve): Gold color; slightly sweet, slight peat, good texture, very tasty.
Singular Sensations
The most exciting new expressions of malt whisky in the market place are four from Glenmorangie: The Nectar D’Or, Glenmorangie 25, The Quinta Ruban, and The Lasanta.
- The Nectar D’Or, $75, has bread and pie aromas, and smacks of lemon meringue and orange notes. Luscious caramel, finely textured. Terrific after dinner experience.
- Glenmorangie 25, $875, made us re-think our views about malt this old, which we often considered too refined into a Cognac-like experience. This is generous, spicy, slightly sweet and minty, beautifully rounded with a long and opulent finish. Fabulous.
- The Quinta Ruban, $70, is ripe, with dark chocolate and almondy/nutty tones. Mocha coffee and chocolate in the taste and finish. Exalted stuff, and we suggest adding a drop or two of cold water (no ice).
- The Lasanta, $65, (it means passion) lives up to its name. It has texture and depth, with raisin, nutty, chocolate flavors. It’s almost a dessert malt, with crème brûlée tones, almonds, spice and vanilla.
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