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Our Favorite Cava

Jaume Serra Cristalino is a top-value Spanish sparkler.

QRW Staff

Jaume Serra WInery

Sparkling wine lovers, here is a Spanish bubbly worthy of your attention. According to a recent Nielsen report, Jaume Serra Cristalino became the best selling Spanish sparkling wine in 2011. Jaume Serra Cristalino ended the year 2010 in a close three way race with Freixenet and Codorníu. Presently, however, in the U.S. market Jaume Serra Cristalino is a clear number two and climbing.

Jaume Serra Cristalino is a delicious sparkling wine, made still more delicious by its price — $10 to $15 depending on which cava style and vintage you purchased. Cava simply means the sparkling wine is made in the traditional Champagne method, which is to say, the secondary fermentation that creates the bubbles occurs in the bottle. The wine has no pretensions and has a fetching charm all its own.

Background: The Jaume Serra Winery was founded in 1943 by Jaume Serra Guell. It’s located in Garraf, near the Penedes, a vast wine growing region in Catalonia, and is a two-hour drive from Barcelona. Winemaking began here in 1947, but it wasn’t until the 1980s that renovations, along with a greater seriousness, came to Jaume Serra. In 1997 the Garcia-Carrion family bought the property and further upscaled the cava by importing yeasts from Champagne. Yeast is integral to the fermentation process, as it not only turns grape juice into wine, but imparts character and alcohol, along with richness and finesse.

Cavas are everyday wines, which is exactly what most wines should be. The bubble activity in any cava — which is where the flavor emerges — should be generous; the bubbles must be tight, small, and on-going. Jaume Serra Cristalino meets this requirement easily. The sparkler is crisp, engaging, and dry. As to the last descriptor, most cavas (like some non-vintage Champagnes) have a sweetness to them that tries to appeal to a younger audience who is unused to how classic bubblies taste. Cristalino Brut Nature and Extra Dry, for examples, are not only dry, but nearly bone dry and made in the classical style.

Nearly 90 percent of the cavas are produced in the Penedes region. Codorníu and Freixenet dominate the sparkling wine scene here, but there are at least a dozen other fine producers, and Jaume Serra Cristalino is on the list. We recently tasted four new Jaume Serra Cristalino releases. The majority of cava is based on the native white grapes, like Parellada, Macebo, and Xarel-lo. The terroir at Jaume Serra Cristalino is ideal for these grapes; its southern exposure and general environment allow for richer, fuller flavors than other cava.

With summer upon us, sparkling wine is an ideal beverage. It’s also a wine that’s making its way to the barbecue scene, serving as complement to grilled fish and seafood and to the hotter spices associated with outside grilling.

Jaume Serra Cristalino wines

2007 Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut Naturale 2007, $15. Of the four releases this is an outstanding bubbly. Straw-yellow hues. Smooth and embracing toastiness with lemon-lime and grapefruit notes. Nice acidity. Crisp. Balanced. Classically dry and fairly long.

Jaume Serra Cristalino Extra Dry NV, $10. Nearly bone dry. Crisp. Balanced acidity. Ideal for grilled fish and salmon. Nice bread-like aroma, with lime, lemon and citrus upfront. The finish is full, long, and dry, with a hint of toast.

Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut NV, $10. Straw color. Aromas of apple, citrus and toast upfront. More of same in flavor. Clean, crisp, dry, with a satisfying short finish.

Jaume Serra Cristalino Rosé-Brut NV, $10. Nice strawberry/raspberry note in the aroma offered by the generous use of Pinot Noir. Fetching wine that invites a second glass. There’s texture and structure enough to make the wine engaging. Good finish. Delicious.

 


More QRW Summer 2011 feature articles:

All Things Grape and Small / Randy Sheahan

Wine Scene / QRW Staff

QRW’s 27th Annual California Best of The Best / QRW Tasting Team

Wining and Dining: Amsterdam / Edward and Mireille Guiliano

California’s Best Wines for $15 and Under / QRW Staff

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