Some years ago, we predicted great things for California Syrah. But for some reason, consumers have never cozied up to the wine, and it’s become a hard-sell. ‘Tis a pity, because no other red grape — not even Cabernet — is a better fit for California than sun-loving Syrah, a point proven by the following five wines.

Wines of such extraordinary character and quality as to be in a class by themselves.

2008 Cakebread Cellars Syrah (Carneros/Napa Valley), $75.
Big, rich, succulent, well-balanced, black fruit, spice and oak vanillin flavors.

2007 Epiphany Syrah Hampton Vineyard (Santa Barbara County), $35.
Big, walloping, super-ripe, black fruit, spice and nutty oak vanillin flavors.

2007 Epiphany Syrah Stagecoach Vineyard (Napa Valley), $49.
Lush, elegant, highly nuanced, blackberry and vanillin flavors.

Winemaker Elias Fernandez with Owner Doug Shafer ©2008 Russ Widstrand

2007 Shafer Syrah Relentless (Napa Valley), $60.
Big, deep, rich, resolute, black fruit, spice and nutty oak flavors — simply marvelous. BEST OF SHOW

2008 Chamisal Syrah Califa Selection (Edna Valley), $42.
Plush, silky, elegant, black fruit and nutty oak flavors.