QRW | Spring 2011 | Mixing It Up

Pinus Sabiniana anyone? That's Latin for Ghost Pines, a tree that grows throughout much of northern and central California. It's a free-form tree with gray and light green needles that has a ghostly character to it especially when its branches are wind blown. The tree grows randomly and knows no boundaries. Which is how Ghost Pines wines comes into the picture. Ghost Pines is an old concept revived by the Louis M. Martini Winery. Most major wineries source their grapes at a single appellation (getting grapes from one particular area or region). Ghost Pines prefers to source their grapes from multi appellations, like Napa, Sonoma, Monterey, and San Joaquin. Like the tree that grows randomly, grape sourcing at Ghost Pine Wines is free-roaming; traditional boundaries are lifted; the point is to blend and craft the best grapes from California's diverse appellations.

For all but the largest volume producers, such sourcing is somewhat unconventional. Why sourcing and blending ever went out of style is still somewhat of a mystery. The Burgundian winemakers have been doing this for centuries, and as a result making some of the greatest wine in the world. Blending can be the highest expression of a winemaker's art. This was true of Louis M. Martini: in the 1930s, he didn't bother himself with appellation boundaries; he just bought the best grapes from the best areas he could find, and he became a legend in doing so. The people at the Martini winery and Ghost Pines are resurrecting the art, and making serious wines while doing so. It's an old wine concept packaged new. Ghost Pines is going back to the future.

Since 2008 Michael Eddy (formerly of Beaulieu Vineyards and Rodney Strong) has been the winemaker overseeing the Ghost Pines venture. His wines are not only delicious — they're also well crafted. Make no mistake about it: his Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel are unequivocally two of the best values for price and quality in California. With successes like these, imitation is sure to follow. Further, sourcing and blending for California's grapes from the best of appellations can be both a salvation for the consumer and a resurgence for the industry. Salvation because the consumer is being saved from a certain global sameness in wine; blending in the Ghost Pine style offers a purer varietal character, pronounced and rounded fruit, and unexpected tasting sensations. Resurgence because the fine wine market needs help. Since the recession of 2008, middle to higher price wine sales have largely halted. At $20 to $23, Ghost Pines has created a series of winning wines priced right. Winemaker Eddy says he has a "vision of the finished wine in mind at the outset," which must pair with food. This is not a throwaway line: Eddy is also a serious baker and cheese maker. The marriage of his multi sourced AVA wines "must pair beautifully with what we're eating." Good thing. Otherwise, we'd have a winemaker trying to make another trophy wine that is in love with itself.

The Wines

2008 Ghost Pines Cabernet Sauvignon Winemaker's Blend, $23. Cabernet blended with Syrah, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and other varietals. Well structured with deep concentration. Firm tannins, with aromas of black cherry, anise, spice, and chocolate. Flavors are jammy, deep black berry, gentle oak, and chocolate. Perfect acidity, with ripeness, depth, complexity, and long finish.

2008 Ghost Pines Merlot Winemaker's Blend, $20. Blended with some Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. An easy, pleasurable, well textured wine with chocolate and coffee notes, along with jam, berry, and spice flavors. Supple and engaging finish. Delicious.

2009 Ghost Pines Zinfandel Winemaker's Blend, $20. Spicy, chocolate, textured, rich berry and jammy notes. Well made, good concentration, rich finish with vibrant acidity and supple finish. Delicious in the extreme.

Mixing It Up

QRW Staff

The Wines