Winemaker Federico Cerelli

We have always felt that Castello di Gabbiano has never received the recognition it should. Our first experience with the wine was in the 1980s. The winery was tired and the vineyards were neglected, but even then we knew there was serious potential here, and, with attention, they could be very fine indeed. In the early-1990s, ownership and winemakers changed hands, and winemaker Giancarlo Roman began the elevation in 1991. In 2001 Foster’s bought Gabbiano. The Castello and its wines were given direction, its production and wines further improved under winemaker Roman. Yet, Castello di Gabbiano still has not gained the attention it deserved. Federico Cerelli, their new Tuscan winemaker who looks like a rock star, is out to change this, and if the current vintages — his first — are anything to go by, success is sure.

Castello di Gabbiano is in San Casciano Val di Pesi, in the heart of Tuscany, perhaps a 20-minute drive from Florence. It’s a pristine and picturesque medieval castle and fortress created in 1124. Even then, good wine was here — wines had been produced here since Etruscan times about 3000 years ago. The land and vineyards were valuable, and not a few medieval battles were contested for the real estate. Knights fought in behalf of Castello Gabbiano to keep the lanes of commerce open from Florence to Siena — hence, the picture of the medieval knight that appears on the Castello Gabbiano label.

Gabbiano has undergone periodic restoration over the centuries. The original owner, the Bardis family from Florence, built the impressive vaulted wine cellars in the 14th century, showing even then the importance of wine to the Castello and to Tuscany generally. Two hundred years later, the Soderinis family, also from Florence, took control and added the four impressive rounded French-like towers that envelop the landscape. Another reason to visit Castello Gabbiano is its hotel facilities — 11 modern stylish rooms with a Tuscan touch — and Il Cavaliere, the restaurant that has become a dining destination. It’s a 16th-century farm house. When we last visited in 2005, Chef Marco Stabile, a Tuscan, was cooking authentic Tuscan fare with a modern sensibility. Outside the restaurant are lush spice and vegetable gardens surrounded by olive and almond trees and wild game, all of which became part of Chef Stabile’s cooking. Gabbiano has also become a resort where cooking courses, hiking, and golfing are just some of the attractions. The real attraction, nonetheless, is the wine.

Federico Cerelli appreciates the superiority of Gabbiano’s terroir. Cerelli, a native of Tuscany and a graduate of the University of Florence in Oenology, knows the soil and environment. Cerelli, with his wine team — a trinity of Tuscans, viticulturist Francesco Caselli and quality controller Francesco Benozzi — is intent on raising the image of Castello di Gabbiano. The region’s weather and general climate are reminiscent of Bordeaux. The soil, sandstone and limestone, are ideal for Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The exposure to sun and wind are nearly ideal. Wines here are big in body; they’re aromatic, well structured, and textured. Cerrelli understands, as all Tuscan wineries understand, that tradition and modern innovation must be maintained. He also knows that Super Tuscan wine is ideal for Gabbiano, and it’s what the global world wants from Tuscany. The old formulaic Chianti Classico is a thing of the past. With vineyards maturing and with finer winemaking techniques available, Cerelli’s first vintage is, in fact, some of the best wines the Castello has produced.

Castello di Gabbiano

The Wines

• 2008 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico DOCG, Toscano, $14. Perfumed, rich red berry, spice, and oak in aromas and in flavor. Vanilla, raspberry notes in mid-palate, with spice. Generous wine. Easy finish.
• 2008 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva, Toscano, $23. Soft ruby/Burgundian color. Snappy pepper spice. Blackberry and cherry; medium chewy tannins; nicely structured with good acidity. Soft and elegant finish.
• 2008 Castello di Gabbiano Alleanza Super Tuscan Red, IGT, Toscano, $35. Floral bouquet of violets. Blackberry upfront, cherry in mid-palate, which unite in the finish with pepper spice and rich vanilla.
• 2008 Castello di Gabbiano Bellezza Chianti Classico DOCG IGT Tuscan Red, $35. 100% Sangiovese. Easy oak, tangy elegance, soft spice, with elegant finish.